La Città Mistica
In the green heart of Italy within the province of Umbria, La Città Mistica-The Mystical City stands tall, majestically perched upon the western flank of Mount Subasio. Assisi, a small medieval town surrounded by ancient stone walls and 8 gates, both which protected the town’s inhabitants many years ago. Looking up from the Spoleto valley below, the town appears bookend between St. Clare’s Basilica made of horizontal bands of white and pink stone standing towards the east, and St. Francis Basilica a whitish, bi-level basilica looming towards the lower west end.
Inside these reinforced walls, cobblestone roads, which carry the echoes of footsteps both past and present, wind their way through the maze of merchant’s shops, street side cafes, and open spaced piazzas. It is in the main piazza, the Piazza del Comune, where you can find the people gathering. Serenading with the sounds of falling water, the Fontana dei Tre Leoni (fountain of the three lions) circular in shape is near the east end. It is here in the mornings, as the sun peeks over the top of Mount Subasio, the townsfolk share their plans for the day while the aroma of cappuccino wafts up from their warm cups. In the evening they pass through here slowly, perhaps on their way to cena (dinner) or to take a seat upon one of the benches lining the piazza which are shadowed by the walls multi story buildings on both sides. If you were to take your place there upon the wooden seats or on the ancient stone steps of the Temple of Minerva, it would not be uncommon to see a robed Franciscan Priest or women adorned in the simple habit of the Poor Clare’s briskly walk by.
As a traveler I do not know which called out to me first, the spirit of St. Francis or the essence of Assisi. Perhaps the two cannot be separated. It was in 2005 when I first introduced myself to the hometown of Sts Francis and Clare. It was a proper introduction with polite curiosity. Upon my arrival, and while partaking of some fresh roasted chestnuts near the Fontana dei Tre Leoni, the day seemed innocent enough. Yet at times now I have wondered if it was then when the gentle flame first sparked. If so, I did not know. It was not until a return visit in 2011 while I was resting among one of the tower ruins of the Rocca Maggiore, an abandoned fortress which stands guard over the city high upon the hilltop, that an Assisi breeze whispered an invitation. My soul responded and my pilgrim’s heart was opened. Since then I have had the privilege of participating in two pilgrimages centered on the lives of St. Francis and St. Clare in and around the mystical city. One in 2015 and the other in 2018.
On Monday of this week, Phil shared with us that on May 5 he will shift the virtual location of his pilgrimage route on Vashon from Spain to Italy. My heart leapt at this news learning he will begin in Assisi, my beloved medieval, Umbrian town. Assisi, also known as the City of Peace, is a worthy place to begin or end a pilgrimage, especially with one we are all so fond of on Vashon Island.
Buon Camino,
Rho Densmore
CSWBC
THANK YOU RHO FOR TODAYS BEAUTIFULLY WRITTEN BLOG. SO THRILLED TO KNOW THAT YOU HAVE SUCH AN INTIMATE CONNECTION WITH THIS LOCATION.
I AM NOT FAMILIAR WITH THIS AREA. HOWEVER WHEN I READ THAT PHIL WAS GOING TO START THIS PILGRIMAGE MY HEART INSTANTLY CRIED OUT–YES.
BON VOYAGE.
SOLVITUR AMBULANDO.
WILLIAM. C.C.B.C.
Thanks William!
It is a special place for many people and worth a visit if you ever find yourself in Italy.
Ciao!
Rho
Thank you William!
I think Phil picked a great pilgrimage route for this time around and now I really hope that the Veranda or some version of it can happen this year. How fun would it be for all of us to join in on this trail?
Also, Assisi is a very special place to many people and it you ever have a chance to visit Italy I recommend you take some time to visit Assisi.
Happy Italian Trails!
Rho
Dear Rho,
What a description… I went to look for pictures of Assisi and your words added the “live function” so perfectly (kind of I could picture the Franciscans brothers or priests walking by…)!
I was also excited to know that we will now be walking the Assisi Way with Phil (I am joining in the machine at home!) It was in my list of places for vacation in these years coming, but the pandemic has brought this realization that I don’t really know when that happened…
I was thinking that maybe you could share pictures of the way as we go… that would be so cool!
Italian Loves,
Cris
Cris,
I was hoping to capture the feel there and thank you for confirming that I did. I had sent Phil two pictures to include with the blog post but unfortunately he could not get them transferred over.
I was supposed to return last fall and actually do this pilgrimage from Assisi to Rome but had to postpone due to an injury and my aunt living with us. Then I was planning to return this fall but as you said who knows if that can happen.
I have been to several of the places between Assisi and Reiti
Valley and have pictures from those areas which I could share. I have only a few pictures from Reiti to Rome. If Phil would like to share them I can certainly pass them along to him. 😊
I will post the two pictures that were to accompany the post on the BC FB page you you can see them. Below is a webcam link where you can watch the Piazza Del Comune in Assisi 24/7. I especially enjoy watching the sunset there this time of year.
https://youtu.be/SOswzz5m6MQ
In sync Italian loves,
Rho
🇮🇹🥰☀️
This is absolutely lovely Rho! Is this part of the Via Francigena? That has been a dream of mine for several years now. When I lived in Italy one summer (in Sienna) I always meant to visit Assisi but it never happened. I have always felt some regret at that, (although that time was so full of travel, I would have had to have not visited other treasures like San Gimignano, or Peruggia, so…) It always seemed like I would LOVE Assissi, so I was holding off until I could center a trip around it. Also, what is the BC FB page?
Annie ~ Rho’s writing about Assisi is on Caminoheads on the May 1st post. Felipé.x