Dearest Ones,

We are still in a state of tender wonder and enormous gratitude for the last 36 days.

We arrived in Santiago yesterday (Sunday) in time for the Pilgrim’s Mass at noon.

We slipped quietly out of our hostel around 6:00 AM; the moon was up and we found some coffee before leaving our town (13 miles outside of Santiago). After coffee we discovered a thick fog had descended obscuring the moon and turning the street lights into eerie globes of misty orange. (Our first day crossing the Pyrenees was heavy in fog – how perfect that our last would be the same). Not far out of town we entered a dark eucalyptus forest. Just us and a couple from Brazil finding our way marks by I phone flashlight and another baby size flashlight that Dana found a few days earlier. I think we are bonded to those sweet Brazilians for life. It felt like a true adventure – so eerie. Eventually morning came but the fog never lifted and we walked into Santiago unable to see it’s famous Cathedral spires until we were standing right beneath them.

Mass was incredibly moving – high and solemn: organ music, a nun who sang with the voice of an angel. Standing room only (there are seats for 1,000) a cardinal from Manilla was visiting and some award was given to a Filipino man all of which is to say we were privileged to see the famous giant incense burner swing. It takes 6 attendants to heave-hoe it aloft and back and forth. It was absolutely stunning to witness and such a surprise. (They only perform the ritual once a week now on Fridays, so we had let go of the hope of seeing it swing long ago.) The Cardinal said a few things in English to us Pilgrims in attendance. The Camino is not a destination or a place, rather it is a way of life. “Gracias, gracias, gracias.” The final gracias a whisper. To live our lives in loving gratitude, that is the way of St. James.

When the many priests filed out after Mass we recognized our pilgrim friend John, from Boston. Dana dubbed him UCP (under cover priest) he looked great in his white vestments and broke ranks for a quick hug. He’s a great fun man and we were delighted to see him one last time.

After church we celebrated with others with whom we had walked. By bed time we were utterly exhausted and so full of heart. What a trip.

We’re bussing part way out to the coast, then walking a bit and looking forward to just resting by the see before we begin traveling toward home on the 17th.

Thank you each so much for holding us, we could not have made it without you.

With all our love and gratitude.
Catherine y Dana

THE END ( ah, and a new beginning. xo)

(This is so moving, tears are streaming down.  Thank you for being so faithful in the reporting of your journey keeping us in mind.  Safe travels, till we meet again.  Oh yes, the wine is chilling, Felipe.)